Account of a tour with Dr. M'Lauchlan and Mr.Meldrum
Written by Dr. M'Lauchlan
Soon afterwards, and before the end of August, (1850?) Dr.
Candlish, accompanied by Dr. MLauchlan and Mr. Meldrum, visited the
Countess of Sutherland and Caithness on behalf of the Education Scheme, and by
the appointment of the Committee on Education. Dr. MLauchlan has put on
record his reminiscences of the tour, which I gladly give in his own words -
"We travelled north in the month of August by Aberdeen, where we spent
a night, and got on the second evening to the neighbourhood of Forres, where we
staid at the house of the Rev. Dr. Mackay, Free Church minister of Rafford. On
leaving the house next morning he said, in speaking of the family which had
entertained him, that is the picture of hospitality. We crossed the
Moray Firth in a small steamboat to Golspie, and got on by a conveyance to
Helmsdale, where the Synod of Sutherland and Caithness were met, and where we
received a cordial welcome.
"Next day he addressed the Synod with
remarkable power on the subject of our mission. The church was crowded in every
part, a large body of the general community being present. The audience was a
thoroughly appreciative one, and the reception he met with was enthusiastic. He
insisted on my speaking in Gaelic, which I did; and after all was over we
received very cordial acknowledgments from the Synod, led by a man who at the
time exercised much influence over the religious community of Sutherland, - the
Rev. John Macdonald of Helmsdale, - a man who was also a warm admirer of Dr.
Candlish, and an enthusiastic supporter of the Education Scheme. Dr. Candlish
was quite delighted with his visit to the Synod, and often said how much he
felt encouraged by their hearty support.
"From Helmsdale we crossed the
famous Ord Hill into Caithness, and spent the first night in the country in the
Free Manse of Latheron, where we were most kindly entertained by the Rev. Mr.
Davidson, at that time the minister. Dr. Candlish had never been in the quarter
before, and he was quite interested in all he saw. The descent of the Ord, the
beautiful valley of Berriedale, the magnificent sea views as we travelled
onwards towards Dunbeath, called forth loud expressions of admiration, such as
all who, knew him were familiar with in similar circumstances.
"For two
days we were engaged in examining schools in Latheron, Lybster, and Bruan; and
it was amusing and interesting to see the intense earnestness with which he
examined the least child in those schools, setting himself to the work, in the
thatched huts in which these Highland schools were taught, with as much zest as
if it were in a great city institution. He examined a class in Greek at one
place with great satisfaction, and he gave much time and attention to
examinations on religious knowledge. In fact, religious education was his text
during the mission. He maintained firmly and eloquently that without religion
education was defective in its most important part, as failing to traia the
conscience, and he was much satisfied to find that religion held so high a
place in the teaching of these northern schools. For the high state of
education in this district much was due to the late Rev. John Mackay, then
minister of the Free Church at Lybster.
"At Wick he was warmly welcomed by
the Rev. Charles Thomson. He preached twice on the Sabbath in the Free Church
to large crowds. As I had to preach in Gaelic to the great congregation of
Highland fishermen gathered at Wick, I had not the pleasure of hearing him, but
it was said that he preached that day with unusual power.
"While in
this northern town the Free Church community resolved to give him some token of
the high esteem in which he was held by them, and they invited him, with Mr.
Meldrum and myself, to a public breakfast. The attendance was large, and the
feeling of those present most cordial. Among other things, it was stated by the
Rev. Mr. Thomson, the chairman, That no one had appeared, for more than a
hundred years, to whom Scotland was more indebted in the matter of education,
than to Dr. Candlish. In the course of Dr. Candlishs own address, he said
that his one great aim and desire was that an ample provision be made for the
godly upbringing of the children of the country. He was impressed with the
conviction, and it was the opinion unanimously held by the members of the Free
Church, that before their schools could obtain a religious character they must
be under the management of a man who is himself deeply impressed with the
importance of the things which belong to their salvation. As a Church they were
not confined to one particular mode or another, but they held it as
indispensable that this one object, - the godly upbringing of the children, -
should be secured. In conclusion, he urged upon the meeting so to act in this
matter as to issue a practical demonstration that they were indeed the Church
of Scotland, and to prove to the world that in this Educational movement they
were following in the footsteps of their forefathers.
"At a large
public meeting at night he advocated the cause of religious education with
remarkable effect.
"On the Tuesday morning we left Wick for Castleton, on
the north coast of Caithness. When within eight miles of the village, although
it was only about eight oclock, we observed groups of people on the road
travelling in the same direction with ourselves. As we passed on the number of
the groups increased, and at last he observed, there must be a market
hereabout to-day. I had, however, observed that the people carried bibles
in their hands, and I said in reply, these people are going to hear you
preach. He said, that cannot be, we are only going to meet the
office-bearers. That may be true, I said, but the
people have heard that you are to be here, and they are determined that you
shall preach. Well, he replied, but I have sent all my
sermons on by the mail to Thurso. What am I to do? By this time we had
reached Castleton, the street of which was filled with people crowding towards
the Free Church. After breakfast and worship at the manse, we proceeded towards
the church, of which the Rev. Mr. MKenzie was minister. On our way Dr.
Candlish said, It is clear that we must have public worship here this
morning- Can you suggest a text I I was rather taken aback, but, on
reflecting a little, I said, Yes, you are here on the subject of bible
education, take the passage in Psalm cxix. 9th verse - Where-withal
shall a young man cleanse his way? By taking heed thereto according to this
word! He made no reply, but soon after passed through the great crowd
that thronged the church to the pulpit. Having finished the preliminary
exercises, to my great surprise notwithstanding the previous conversation, he
announced for his text Psalm cxix., the 9th verse. I really did not know how he
could preach without reading, and more especially without preparation, but a
more masterly sermon I never heard. He riveted the attention of his
congregation for more than an hour, and left them with all the impressions they
had of his greatness as a preacher of the Word not only confirmed but deepened.
I must acknowledge to having been deeply impressed myself with the power and
success of the effort, knowing as I did all the particulars.
"At night
we addressed a large meeting in Thurso in the Free Church, having first
received a very hearty welcome from the Rev. Mr. Taylor and other brethren. At
this meeting a somewhat curious incident occurred. I happened to speak briefly
at the outset, and was in the pulpit when Dr. Candlish gave his address. As he
proceeded, I thought I observed a face which I knew looking occasionally in at
the door opposite us, but coming no farther. By and bye I thought that I
recognised Mr. Hugh Miller, who was at the time geologising on the Caithness
coast and I was right. Mr. Miller differed from Dr. Candlish on the Education
question, but was anxious to hear what he had to say, and took this mode of
satisfying himself. It showed that on the question of Education he could not go
with us, although no man had done more than he to promote the interests of the
Free Church; and he took occasion to refer to the statements made that night in
articles which soon after appeared in the Witness newspaper. Dr. Candlish and
Mr. Miller were in reality not so far apart in sentiment as they supposed at
the time.
"From Thurso we proceeded westward along the north coast of
Caithness and Sutherland to Tongue. The journey was new to Dr. Candlish, and he
often expressed himself strongly in admiration of the scenery as we passed
along. The weather was beautiful. The land of Orkney appeared clear to the
north, the Head of Hey standing out in stern magnificence, presenting its bold
front to the western ocean ; the bleak muirland of Caithness stretched away to
the left; the interesting valleys of the Halladale and Strathy waters opened up
on us; wild and weather-worn headlands disclosed themselves successively to the
right, and in front lay the noble mountain-masses of the Reay country,
including the giants Ben Loyal and Ben Hope. It was just the sort of scene to
interest and to excite him.
"We called on the venerable Mr. Finlay Cook,
then Free Church minister of Reay, and Dr. Candlish was charmed with the
simplicity, cheerfulness, and earnest piety of the excellent old man, so long a
man of note among the religious community of the north.
"We spent a
night at Farr, in the manse of the Rev. David MKenzie, of the Free Church
there, one of the most accomplished and estimable of Highland ministers. Dr.
Candlish was quite taken with his fund of anecdote, many of his anecdotes
having reference to men and measures in General Assemblies long before his own
time. We preached both Gaelic and English to a large congregation here, Dr.
Candlish preaching without paper to a deeply interested audience. Next day we
left Farr ; and, as Mr. MKenzie accompanied us in his own conveyance, I
suggested to Dr. Candlish that he should travel with him, as he could tell him
all about the country we passed through. I will, indeed, he said ;
he is capital company.
"When we reached Tongue we were
cordially received by the Rev. George Mackay, and we found the church crowded
to hear what we had to say. I preached Gaelic first, Dr. Candlish occupying a
place in the elders seat during the service. I had suggested that he
should remain in the manse until the Gaelic was over. But he said, No, I
want te give countenance to the Highlanders and their worship, although,
he added, laughing, it is a great exercise of self-denial He has
more than once alluded since to the patience he exercised on that occasion on
asking me to do something that required a little effort And very patiently he
did it He preached after in English with great power; and expounded, to the
satisfaction of the people, his views on religious education.
"We
travelled that night from Tongue up the valley that stretches for eighteen
miles by Loch Loyal and the main stream that feeds it, to the inn of
Altnaharra, at the head of Strathnaver. I travelled in the same conveyance with
him. The evening was calm and soft, and he was quite in a mood for conversation
Among other subjects on which he talked was the brick church in the Lothian
Road which my congregation occupied at the time; and which was built at the
Disruption for him and the congregation of Free St. Georges. He expressed
a deep interest in the building, saying that the happiest days of his ministry
were spent in it. He expressed the hope that it might never be used for another
purpose than that of a place of worship. In this his desire was gratified. I
said that he must have felt it very painful to leave old St. Georges at
the Disruption. He said, Quite the opposite; there were men who sat in
the elders seat who had no sympathy with me, and I am glad to be
separated from them. Among other things the state of religion in the
Church was talked over, and in connection with it the proceedings of the
General Assembly when the report of the Committee on the State of Religion was
given in. I said that many were surprised that he never spoke on the subject. I
said, You set other men up to speak on the subject; good men, no-doubt,
but there are not a few who have as much confidence in your own personal
religion, and your interest in these matters, and they would like to see you
take your place. It is not good to confine this matter to one peculiar school
in the Church. His reply surprised me as evidence of a humility for which
he did not always get credit : Ah, I have such a consciousness of my own
shortcomings in the matter of personal religion that I often fear to open my
mouth on the subject On hearing these words I said nothing more, but they
did not make me think the less of his personal religion, however much the more.
"We spent a very pleasant evening at Altnaharra, our hosts Mr. Harry
Munro, being a firm Free Churchman, and a warm admirer of Dr. Candlish,
although he had never seen him before, doing all he could to contribute to our
comfort. Next day, when the bill was called for, no bill was forthcoming, Mr.
and Mrs. Munro saying that they felt proud to entertain Dr. Candlish in their
house, and that they hoped they might soon see him back again. In addition to
this they sent a conveyance with us to Lairg, a distance of twenty-one miles.
Dr. Candlish was quite struck with this instance of Highland hospitality,
saying that it showed the hold which the Free Church had taken of the
conscience and heart of the Highland people.
"On the way to Lairg we
passed through a region entirely devoted to the rearing of sheep. Hardly is one
human dwelling to be seen all the way. We had a long talk as we passed along on
the subject of the Sutherland clearances, on which he spoke very strongly.
Among other things he said, looking at some lambs that frisked by the wayside,
I could conceive that the figure of a lamb, used as applicable to our
Saviour, would not impress the popular mind here as it does elsewhere. Here it
must convey impressions of a painful kind. The people can have no pleasant
associations with a lamb.
"We visited Golspie and Dornoch, in
both of which he preached to large bodies of people, addressing them on the
subject of our mission. Our last public meeting was in Tain, where, on a
week-day evening, he addressed an immense congregation in the Free Church.
Sitting together in the evening at Tain we conversed on the subject of the
Disruption struggle. He spoke very strongly on the subject of the difficulty in
getting many men who favoured the non-intrusion cause to sympathise fully with
the principle of popular rights. He said it was far easier to get men to
acknowledge the rights of the Church than the rights of the people, but that,
for his own part, he had all along felt that the liberties of the Christian
people were as clearly derived from Christ as those of the Church, and that he
had uniformly taken that ground. In this, he said, he occupied the very ground
occupied by his predecessor Dr. Andrew Thomson, of whose memory he spoke with
high admiration. He said he thought he was the greatest man the Church had
produced in modern times.
"Next evening, at Inverness, we separated. He
and Mr. Meldrum were to leave in the morning for the south. I had, at an
earlier hour, to take the coach for the east. We had had our evening worship in
cur room in the hotel and some time after we were taking leave for the night,
when he said, I dont think we three should part without
prayer, which he asked me to offer up. I said, No, there should be
prayer, but you must offer it up. He did so, and I shall never forget
that prayer.
FROM "Memorials of Dr.Candlish" by Wm. Wilson
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