asp2

ANDREW THOMSON (BROUGHTON)

Thomson2

IN THE HOLY LAND
CHAPTER VIII.
Explorations.
Captain Warren—Sergeant Birtles—Previous researches of Captain Wilson—Summary of results—What kind of explorers needed—Difficulties—Accumulated rubbish—Ignorance and bigotry—Amusing instances —Evasions—Experience of explorers on landing at Jaffa—Gunpowder vegetating—The donkey-stable—Irritating restrictions—Vexatious lawsuits—Qualities of native workmen—Descent into the shafts—Tunnels—Dangers—Perilous adventures—Accidents—Results—Interesting articles discovered-—Places verified-—Water-supply of Old Jerusalem—Solomon and Hezekiah—The Tyropoean Valley—Wilson and Robinson's arches—Questions waiting to be answered—Red-paint characters—Their significance—The Moabite stone—Its age and value [a Kings iii.]—Future discovery.

DURING the portion of March 1869 that we spent in Jerusalem, we had repeated interviews with Captain Warren, were kindly permitted by him to descend several of his shafts and to explore his tunnels, had the design and character of his explorations explained to us, and were enabled, in some degree, to appreciate the formidable difficulties with which he had to contend in endeavouring to promote archaeological discovery and to settle some of the most important questions connected with the topography of ancient Jerusalem. In meeting in the streets of the city his shrewd and faithful assistant Sergeant Birtles, followed by a staff of stalwart and intelligent engineers with their unmistakable British look about them, it was difficult to repress a wish to go up and shake hands with them, as if they had been old acquaintances. Indeed, from the first there had been a kindly nod of recognition exchanged between us, before we had gone through the formality of being introduced to them by their chief; while the sight of one of their shafts, with windlass at the top and a few curiously-disposed Arabs loitering near, made you feel many hundred miles nearer home; and, like one approaching a goldmine, we could not come within a moderate distance of it without a strong impulse to rush forward and learn whether there had been any new discovery.

We shall not pretend to describe the processes of exploration; for even did we possess engineering skill and a knowledge of technical language sufficient for the purpose, we are convinced that, without a very liberal use of diagrams and photographs, it is impossible by mere description to convey anything beyond the most vague conception of such matters to a general reader. Our purpose will be gained if we succeed in giving a correct impression of the importance of the work, and of the nature of the obstructions so discouraging and irritating to the workers and yet so bravely and patiently met by them, with a summary estimate of the results.

Captain Wilson and his associates had already made valuable contributions to the geographical and antiquarian knowledge of Palestine, before Captain Warren entered on the inviting field. Not to enumerate many minor services, he had, at least to the satisfaction of the greater number of inquirers, identified the site of Capernaum, detected the ruins of Chorazin, and helped to place among the most certain of modern discoveries, on the eastern shore of the Galilean lake, the scene of the destruction of the possessed swine when they ran down a steep place and were drowned in the sea. He had greatly increased our knowledge of the structure of the ancient synagogue, correcting the common popular notions on this subject; and had brought to light some of the most beautiful sculptures on those ecclesiastical buildings, which appear to have been, in many cases, not simply ornamental, but suggestive and emblematic. He had surveyed the district of which the Lake of Galilee was the centre, as well as the important region around Sychar, with its twin-mountains of Ebal and Gerizim. And he had crowned all his other solid services to science and Biblical study by preparing the material for a complete Ordnance Map of Jerusalem - by numerous well-directed excavations in the sacred city, in which he had guided the course and lightened the work of future labourers - and especially by discovering the spring of the arch which now fitly bears his name opposite to that which had previously been discovered by Robinson on the Moriah side of the Tyropoean Valley, thus completing the evidence that an ancient bridge had once spanned this ravine and connected the lower with the upper city.

Important results like these, along with other causes, awakened the expectation of other and equally valuable results from further explorations of the same kind in this unexhausted field, conducted by qualified scientific and learned men who should be stationed for a series of years in the country, should be amply supplied with all the apparatus and tools adequate for their work, and have under them a competent number of labourers. It was all very well, in its own place, that persons like ourselves who were out on a short furlough, should skim the surface of the land like summer swallows, and perhaps be able to record some custom among the people, or to observe some feature in the scenery that would shed new or increased light on a sentence in the Word of God. But what was needed was thorough and prolonged investigation that should patiently dig among ruins, decipher inscriptions, discover the localities of lost towns and villages, and, in short, at length supply us with the means of knowing the topography of Palestine as well as we know that of England. We wanted men who should go out with carefully-prepared questions and unsolved problems from England, determined to have the answer or the solution ere they returned - men who should do for Jerusalem what Layard had done for Nineveh and Rawlinson for Babylon, and what Signor Castellani, by diverting the current of the Tiber, is now proposing to do for Rome. This led to the formation, in London, in June 1865, of the Palestine Exploration Fund. The programme of this society was admirably comprehensive, embracing, in addition to the objects at which we have hinted, the formation of an Ordnance Map of the Holy Land and of the Sinaitic Peninsula, similar to that which Captain Wilson had already prepared of Jerusalem. But as all these objects could not be accomplished or even attempted at once, it was determined to commence operations in Jerusalem, the natural centre of greatest interest, and where the most important problems had to be solved. In pursuit of this great and sacred enterprise, Captain Warren was sent out, and in February 1867 he appeared in Jerusalem with his mining tools, his scientific instruments, and a picked band of trained assistants.

This accomplished officer found himself at once met by difficulties of various kinds, that severely tested even his sanguine temper and fertility of resource. The experience of Captain Wilson and others had already in part apprized him that the ancient Jerusalem of which he was in search - the Jerusalem in which our Lord and his contemporaries had walked - was fifty feet down below the surface of the modern city, and that, in some places, it lay buried more than a hundred feet beneath. There were those who wondered when they read in the newspapers, not long since, that the remains of the old Roman London had been discovered, in tesselated pavement and other signs, fifteen feet beneath the London of our own day, in Bishopgate Street. But the debris that conceals the old Jerusalem, if carried away and massed together, would form a large mountain of itself. And no wonder; for Jerusalem has on three occasions undergone general destruction ; and in addition to this, it has been subjected to seventeen sieges, in which its largest and most prominent buildings were certain to suffer most. On these occasions, the people never thought of clearing away the bruised and broken material and obtaining a. deep and solid base for a new erection. The new houses rose upon the ruins of the old. We have a remarkable instance of the effect of this in the Tyropoean Valley, which was once a deep ravine separating Mount Moriah from Mount Zion, but which has been so filled up by the ruins of centuries tumbling into it, that its outline is now scarcely traceable. Then the ruins themselves do not cohere. A few feet below the surface, the debris is almost fluid, and when once set in motion runs like water, and large stones and broken columns intermingled with it are certain then to move also, and to dash with terrific force against the first solid object they touch. It is easy to see how difficult it must have been to sink deep shafts through such loose and treacherous material, and how lateral tunnelling through such rubbish must sometimes have almost appeared like courting destruction.

There was another frequent and vexatious obstruction in the bigotry and ignorance of the people, and even of the public authorities. The bigotry is no doubt declining; for had the same attempt been made even ten years earlier, the opposition would have been much more formidable and dangerous. Within a period of less than twenty years, the state of feeling among the Moslem population presented an unpleasantly practical illustration of the late Isaac Taylor's definition of fanaticism as "enthusiasm inflamed by hatred." It had been observed that, at a particular period in the day, the shadow of the great Mosque of Omar fell upon a certain Christian burying ground. Even the honour and blessing conveyed by so sacred a shadow was grudged. The public authorities at Jerusalem were strongly urged to have the Christian cemetery removed to some more distant place, and it required all the combined influence of the European consulates to prevent a scandalous order to this effect from being issued.

Later than this, when a firman was sent forth.giving permission to persons who were not Mohammedans to visit the interior of the mosques, it was no uncommon saying among the more intolerant Turks, that while the Sultan might have power to let a Frank enter their mosques, he had no power to let him out again; and there was an evident intention, in the first instance, that the knives of wild dervishes and fanatical dependents on the mosques, should make amends in their own fashion for relaxed severity of restriction or exclusion.

These things are past now; but the prejudice and ignorance in which they originated are very far from having become extinct or inoperative. The exploring party had scarcely landed at Jaffa when they were met by the obstacle which was to annoy them in so many forms afterwards. Their innocent theodolites and sextants were pronounced by the custom-house officers to be warlike stores, and they only escaped seizure on the vice-consul's undertaking to vouch for them that they were of a peaceful nature, and not liable to go off! Indeed, the ignorance of the people in some instances almost exceeded belief. On one occasion, when Captain Warren was engaged in a most interesting exploration connected with Robinson's Arch, he found it necessary to use gunpowder for blasting some of the stokes which were too large and hard for the hammer. Immediately the strange rumour was spread among the Moslems that these foreigners were about to deposit little lumps of gunpowder all round the walls of the Noble Sanctuary; that these would grow and grow until they became barrels, and that then, in about twenty years, when the powder crop was ripe, they would come back with some machine and blow the whole place up! Reports of this kind, fostering vague suspicions and fears, produced much anxiety and trouble, though the ignorance sometimes showed itself in an irresistibly ludicrous form. One day when a company of picked men were busily at work in their excavations, they struck in unexpectedly on a donkey-stable in which the owner happened to be present. The poor donkey-man, startled at the apparition of so many begrimed faces that had suddenly come upon him as if they had sprung out of the earth, fled in precipitation, declaring that he was pursued by Gins or evil spirits ! We can imagine, however, that obstructions of this nature were not so discouraging to our indefatigable explorers, as were the exceptions and conditions which accompanied and clogged the Sultan's permission to excavate. It is plain that the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and the Haram Sanctuary were the places around which the questions of greatest interest gathered, and that these questions were almost certain to find a satisfactory solution, were the excavations allowed to be conducted within and beneath those two sacred structures. But they were sternly prohibited from opening their shafts within a certain distance of either of them. This was equivalent to shutting them out entirely from explorations in connection with the former building, which was, in fact, so encircled by convents that it could not even be approached; and the Haram, as belonging to the Moslem, was guarded with a yet intenser jealousy. The only way in which explorations connected with this second grand centre of interest could be made at all, was to sink shafts as near as possible to the prohibited distance, and then to approach the Haram wails by tunnelling underneath.

Even in the case of private properties, the difficulties were often great. Though ignorant as the beasts that perish about all matters of science, householders, when asked to sell their houses for purposes of excavation, were shrewd enough to drive home their advantage and demand an exorbitant price; and some of them, when asked to yield up portions of their gardens, did their utmost to get out of the concession a snug annuity. When we were in Jerusalem, Captain Warren complained to us of a kindred form of annoyance, which appeared for the time to overtop all the others. His researches awakened the selfishly litigious spirit. If some rickety house tumbled down within fifty yards of the mouth of one of his pits, his excavations got the blame of it, and he was summoned before one of the corrupt native "cadis" and sued for damages that were stated, of course, at a most extravagant figure. In some cases the demand was resisted; in others it was found to be an economy both of time and money to consent to a compromise. But the very likelihood of such fabricated lawsuits arising from every fresh opening of the ground, was disturbing in the extreme. Still, these admirable men took to their work with a will. They knew that the eyes of men of science and religion were fixed on them from every part of the world, that there were rich mines of discovery hidden somewhere within the range of their explorations, and that to help in settling the long perplexed questions of sacred research, and in shedding new light on the inspired records, was something indeed worth living for.

In one quarter in which Captain Warren had probably anticipated some difficulty, he soon found substantial aid, and incidentally wrought out a conclusion which may be of use when applied in other directions. He was obliged to depend for the less skilled forms of labour upon native workmen. And he did not find the Arab to be the intractable creature that he has so often been described to be. At first, indeed, he was inclined to take his work by fits and starts, and the intervals of resting were apt to be much longer than those of working. When any work required plan or thought, he could not.be trusted alone. The muscles necessary for the clever handling even of the common wheel-barrow seemed never to have been developed in him; and when he shivered with cold in winter, he could never be made to see that hard working was one of the surest and safest ways to bring heat. But when he found himself paid at the end of the week, not according to the time spent, but to the work done, he saw the equity of the arrangement, and became gradually educated into a fair measure of steadiness in toil. For, while the Arab is slow to believe in goodness, he has a quick appreciation of justice, and a respect for calm power. Wishing to have some notion of the manner of the excavations, we obtained leave from Captain Warren to descend two of his shafts. It was one of our most memorable adventures in Jerusalem; and as we were utterly new at such work, we suspect we must have looked amusingly awkward and cautious to those who were looking down upon us from the pit-mouth. Taking a lighted candle in one hand, we descended by a rope-ladder, which was fixed to an iron rod driven deep into the ground at the entrance of the shaft. The sides of the shaft were boarded by planks of wood that had been brought from England - for Palestine could not even supply this material sufficiently and in a prepared form; and it rots so quickly, that, in a few months, it needs to have its place supplied by new boarding. When we were about half-way down, we were surprised to find that the earth had bulged out in one place, and that the boarding had cracked and was protruding. It was no easy matter to get past this on the dangling rope-ladder, and any loss of self-possession would have been destruction. But we managed at length to wriggle past, and the remaining part ot our descent was easy. We were received by one of Captain Warren's men at the bottom; and passing along a tunnel of some length, in which the earth was very moist and on which drops were constantly falling from the uneven roof, we descended a second shaft to about eighty feet beneath the surface of the ground. There was a tunnel leading from this bottom, and we could hear at no great distance the dripping of water. We were told that one of the tanks or aqueducts of Old Jerusalem had been discovered in that direction, and throwing a stone, we heard its sullen plunge into the depths.

We had obtained but a glimpse, however, of the dangers which those bold explorers were called every day to face. Showers of stones and streams of loose and treacherous shingle were common occurrences. In some places the earth was so poisoned by sewage, that the hands of the workmen broke out into festering sores; in other places the air was found to be so impure, that the candles refused to burn. On some occasions, when descending into unexplored vaults, the rope ladder proved much too short, and they had no choice but, holding by stones on the sides of the cavern, to climb down over-hands as they best could, sometimes to the distance of twelve feet At other times, unable to keep their footing on the slippery soil, they were plunged overhead into an unwelcome bath, unsavoury as well as cold. In another instance, the water from a periodic spring so increased upon them, that they were obliged to flee before it; and when it swelled up to Captain Warren's neck, he could only preserve the candle from extinction by carrying it in his mouth.

There were two adventures which we must describe in Captain Warren's own words. He was endeavouring to verify the conjecture that he had come upon one of the overflow-aqueducts from the Temple of Solomon, and that there might be a. water-conduit underneath. "We scrambled along for a long way on our feet, our skulls and spines coming in unhappy contact with the passage roof. After advancing thus for about 200 feet, we found that the mud reached higher up, and we had to crawl by means of elbows and toes. Gradually the passage got more and more filled up, and our bodies could barely squeeze through, and there did not appear to be sufficient air to support us for any length of time; so that, having advanced 400 feet, we commenced a difficult retrograde movement, having to get back half-way before we could turn our heads round." He thus describes his exploration of the subterranean passage extending under the Via Dolorosa, from the Convent of the Sisters of Zion, which had been entered some years before by Captain Wilson: - "I have examined the hitherto unexplored passage cut in the rock at the southern end. I got some planks, and made a perilous journey on the sewage for about twelve feet, and found myself in a magnificent passage cut in the rock, thirty feet high, and covered by large stones laid across. Seeing how desirable it would be to trace out this passage, I obtained three doors, and went down there to-day with Sergeant Birtles. We laid them down on the surface of the sewage, and advanced along by lifting up the hindermost and throwing it in front of us." Afterwards, a second subterranean passage, was found, and he thus describes his examination of a part of it: - " For about seventy-five feet this passage is a pool of water about six feet deep, the water coming up to about two feet below the springing. We had to construct a raft, floated with inflated skins, to enable us to examine this portion of the vault."

These brave workers, in fact, went to their daily toils " with their lives in their hands," and it was impossible that they should always come out scathless. We have seen it stated that more than fifty accidents took place during the excavations. One day a labourer would be dragged out crushed and bleeding; another day some one would be buried in the ruins, and only extricated in time to save his life. The same spirit was at work in these men as has borne others through the perils of a forlorn hope, or carried adventurous voyagers to the frozen seas around the Pole. A yet more sacred enthusiasm glowed in the breasts of some of them. Many will say that it required discoveries of no common value to reward such ventures and toils, prolonged until failing health compelled both leaders and men to desist. But very precious fruits for sacred archaeology have already been gathered and garnered. In estimating these, it is necessary to remember that in many instances Captain Warren has helped forward investigations which he has not completed, but which will enable future explorers to start at the point at which he left them. In not a few other cases, he has increased the probability of previous conjectures, and carried us many degrees nearer to the goal of certainty.

Even his incidental discoveries of articles mainly of domestic use among the ancient inhabitants of Jerusalem, were something more than mere things for curiosity to wonder at, as in the house-lamps, the beautifully coloured glass vases, the stone weights, and the numerous fragments of pottery. The lamp found among the rubbish under the pavement on the southern side of the Haram, bearing the inscription, "The light of Christ shines on all," and which is thought to belong to the third or fourth century, is an object to linger over with interest. One likes to think of the hands that, two millenniums back, may have handled that well-preserved "seal of Haggai the son of Shebaniah." Again, the stone-roller, dug out far down from a heap of miscellaneous rubbish, is of value to the Biblical student, as bearing on the question of the structure of the houses in Old Jerusalem. It is of the same construction in every way as the stone-rollers to be seen on the flat roofs of the houses in Lebanon at the present day, which are used for the purpose of keeping the roof smooth, compact, and solid. Such rollers naturally suggest the existence of flat-roofed houses in Jerusalem in far remote centuries, as the language and allusions of our Lord in many places imply that they were. Captain Warren is right in speaking of the whole rubbish around the Haram wall as "interesting debris;" for it seems scarcely possible to doubt that, were it examined and searched in detail, as it will be one day, there would be found many unmistakable fragments and ornaments of the ancient temple, not improbably even many broken weapons of war. It seems far from improbable that in one tunnel, whose course he traced, he had come upon the conduit by which the blood and offal were carried from the temple-altar into the Kidron; and that in another spacious subterranean passage he had discovered the secret road mentioned by Josephus, by which Herod conducted troops from the citadel in the upper quarter of the city, to check disturbance and riot in the open space before the temple gate; while it is beyond doubt that he has found the true bed of the Kidron brook thirty-eight and a half feet below the present false bed. There is ample evidence that even yet the water flows along, and often fills this true bed, at the rainy season.

This ardent explorer has, in common with his accomplished predecessor, thrown a flood of light upon the water-supply of the Jerusalem of the past. In the remains of enormous tanks and artificial pools, some of them almost having the dimensions of lakes; in the engineering skill which is shown, at once for the prevention of waste and for the outflow of surplus water, which their explorations have revealed, we are enabled to read with new interest and admiration, and also with much clearer understanding, the condensed references in sacred history to the elaborate arrangements of Solomon and Hezekiah. It is the strongest testimony to the science and grandeur of their work, that in all the seventeen sieges to which Jerusalem has been subjected since the days of her kings, her defenders and people have never suffered from the want of water. There were many places noticed by these explorers which had evidently been draw-wells; and the marks made by the buckets, as they were let down and drawn up, could still be traced. This subject is very far from being exhausted. There are questions which wait to be answered, both in reference to the sources of the water and the means by which it was effectually concealed from the enemy during periods of siege; but these two men have done more than any others, both to open up this field of investigation and to cultivate it.

Captain Warren has also made solid additions to our knowledge regarding the bridge which anciently spanned the Tyropoean Valley. The entire history of discovery on this subject is indeed a remarkable example of investigation carried forward, from one step to another, to an ultimate issue which sets the whole matter at rest. By one traveller a spring of the arch was discovered on one side of the ravine; by another, a corresponding spring was discovered on the other side; and then Captain Warren entered on the field, and not only revised and confirmed the previous conclusions, but, some fathoms down, discovered, lying in order, on an old pavement, the stones or voussoirs that had composed the arch. And as he dug downward to find the original bed of the valley, he came on the unmistakable fragments of another arch of much greater antiquity. Looking up from the depths of this valley along the immense stretch of the Haram wall, the view of the temple must have been a sight of wondrous beauty. Captain Wilson has helped our conceptions by asking us to imagine a building longer than York Minster standing on an elevation loftier than that of our highest city towers, and dazzling, like a glory, in its singular whiteness and purity.

Those recent explorations have not set at rest the question regarding the site of the Jewish Temple. But they have done much to narrow the field of inquiry. They have given the answer to questions which will hasten the answer to the great question of all. The greater part of the exploratory work has been accomplished, which is necessary to be made outside the Haram walls. It is now a settled point that the site of the Temple was somewhere within the boundaries of the Haram Sanctuary. It is considered almost as certain that the temples of Solomon, Zerubbabel, and Herod stood on the same site, though Herod, ambitious of ornament and splendour, may have extended the wings of his temple further in some directions. And it is difficult to repress the belief, that were men of the energy and ability of those recent explorers only allowed to bore their shafts and to drive their tunnels within the Haram area, as they have been allowed to do around its outer walls, the great archaeological problem would soon be solved. Captain Warren has indicated as a high probability that these inquiries, when they are carried out, will fix the site of the ancient Temple on a position nearly coincident with the Dome of the Rock platform - the unexplored 600 feet of wall south of the Golden Gate and overlooking the Kidron, corresponding with what was the eastern side of the holy house; and he has stated tests by which his opinion may be put to the proof, when once the space now guarded by Mohammedan exclusiveness is allowed to be pierced by the rod of Science, and made to let its secret out.

We happened to be in Jerusalem at the time when the red-paint characters at the south-east angle of the Haram wall were discovered, some of which our fellow-traveller Mr. Deutsch declared to be special masons'-marks or quarry-signs. Some weeks afterwards, at Beyrout, Mr. Deutsch announced to us, on his return from a short excursion to Tyre and Sidon, that he had found similar characters on the stones of the substructures of those old Phoenician harbours. The coincidence must be acknowledged as significant between this and the Scripture statement, that Phoenician workmen were employed by Solomon in great numbers in preparing stones for the house which he had resolved to build as the earthly dwelling-place of Jehovah. In reporting on similar painted marks discovered on the northeast angle of the Haram wall, Captain Warren called attention to the evidence which these marks afforded that the stones had been shaped at the quarry and brought prepared for building. In one instance the paint had run, and the trickling was upward in reference to the present position of the stone. Indeed, all the noticeable facts and specialities unite to confirm the inspired record that " the house, when it was in building, was built of stone made ready before it was brought thither."

The design of this chapter has restricted our observations almost entirely to Jerusalem. But we shall be carrying out the real intention of our statements if we make a closing reference to the discovery of the Moabite stone within the borders of the ancient land of Moab, as a rebuke to the unreasoning impatience of some when brilliant results do not turn up with every spadeful of earth, and an encouragement to the prosecution of this great and sacred exploratory enterprise. That stone, found unexpectedly on the surface of the earth, and with its inscriptions for the most part in a wonderful state of preservation, has, in many ways, been an immense gain. It is by some centuries the oldest Semitic lapidary inscription that has yet been discovered, bearing our thoughts back nine hundred years before Christ, to the period of the Hebrew monarchy. It illustrates, to a previously unheard of degree, the history of our own alphabetic writing. And though, in consequence of mismanagement at the first, which, if we do not severely blame, we must profoundly regret, we do not now possess the stone in its original entireness, it is, even in its fragmentary state, a historic monument of much interest and high value. Written, as it has been said, from a Moabite point of view, it harmonizes at every part with what is recorded in 2nd Kings, chap, iii., respecting Mesha, king of Moab. It is incontestable that it contains the names of Omri, the contemporary king of Israel, and also of the wicked Ahab; those of several Moabite and Israelitish towns; those of the idols Chemosh and Moloch; and, above all, that of Jahveh, or Jehovah, God of Israel. But in addition to the great intrinsic value of this old monument, the simple fact of its discovery at the time invested it with no small relative importance. There was a growing disappointment, both among scholars and the general public that were looking on, that no inscriptions of any magnitude had yet been found. While miles of inscription of even older date had been brought to light on the tombs and temples of Egypt and in the palaces of Nineveh, Palestine and its border-countries seemed to be empty of palseographical treasures, when this rich record appeared at the seasonable moment, and led to the natural conclusion that if even the surface of the land could present such records, more might be hidden underground. Those green mounds, which every traveller may see in Palestine and in the Lebanon valleys, in all likelihood preserve ruins which only need the divining-rod of Science to bring them to the surface, startling expectation, confirming faith, casting new gleams of light upon many an inspired sentence, and causing " truth," as it were, " to spring out of the earth, while righteousness looks down from heaven."
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